The Overview
GOOMHEO, the luxurious yet subversive menswear brand founded by London-based, South Korean-born designer Goom Heo, redefines contemporary fashion by blending historical garment references with avant-garde design elements. This approach garnered supportive press for GOOMHEO's early collections, although securing stockists proved challenging as buyers found the garments too unconventional.
To appeal to a wider audience without compromising GOOMHEO’s signature creativity, My task was to balance its subversive DNA with commercial viability. Building on the innovative techniques that defined GOOMHEO, new commercially conscious yet inventive garments, prints, and accessories were developed. This strategic evolution aimed to make the brand’s visionary designs more accessible, ensuring that GOOMHEO continues to captivate fashion enthusiasts while expanding its market presence.
The Impact
The successful integration of commercial sensibilities with GOOMHEO’s avant-garde ethos led to acquiring new stockists after my first season.
We refined collection directions through conversations with industry experts and buyers, resulting in a balanced approach that preserved the brand’s creative integrity while enhancing market appeal.
The feedback-driven design strategy ensured that GOOMHEO’s offerings resonated with both buyers and customers, positioning the brand for sustainable growth and increased visibility in the fashion industry.
My designs for GOOMHEO garnered significant attention, with features in Vogue and endorsements from high-profile figures like Shania Twain.
"What really stood out, though, were the digitally printed,
pleated knit bodycon looks.” - Alex Kessler for Vogue
pleated knit bodycon looks.” - Alex Kessler for Vogue
The Project
Discovery
To align GOOMHEO’s avant-garde inspirations with commercial viability, I strategically led comprehensive research to bridge the gap between the brand’s perception and market positioning. This involved an analysis sales data, collection reviews and buyer feedback to refine GOOMHEO’s brand identity.
Insights
Through stakeholder engagement, including industry experts, buyers and leaders of the Fashion East incubator program, I identified key areas for improvement. Feedback highlighted that while sustainable, one-of-a-kind garments were valued, the bold prints and uniquely cut trousers and outerwear generated the greatest customer interest from both men and women. This feedback guided us to expand into new product categories, particularly unisex garments and accessories, including bags, shoes, and eyewear.
Design Development
Emphasizing the brand’s creative codes and commercial opportunities, I collected visual research and organized materials into mood boards to refine our vision and ensure every inspiration connected to a tangible garment, maintaining a focus on customer aligment commercial output.
Leading the design for textile prints, footwear, and accessories, I considered stakeholder feedback whilst infusing recognisable garments and techniques with GOOMHEO’s subversive lens, crafting products that were both commercial and challenging.
The Reflection
Successes:
Innovative Design Integration: GOOMHEO successfully balanced its avant-garde creativity with commercial viability, resulting in collections that were both marketable and innovative. The strategic incorporation of buyer feedback and thorough research ensured that the brand’s unique aesthetic resonated with a broader audience.
Market Expansion: The brand’s expansion into new product categories, including unisex accessories and eyewear, significantly broadened its market appeal. This strategic move diversified GOOMHEO’s offerings and enhanced its visibility in the competitive fashion industry.
Industry Recognition: Products designed under my lead garnered significant attention, with features in Vogue and endorsements from high-profile figures like Shania Twain. Additionally, GOOMHEO’s successful application to the LVMH Prize, resulting in a semi-finalist position, highlighted the brand’s innovative prowess and industry impact.
Challenges:
Balancing Creativity and Commerciality: One of the primary challenges was aligning GOOMHEO’s subversive designs with market demands. Initial difficulties in securing stockists due to the avant-garde nature of the garments necessitated a strategic approach to balance innovation with commercial appeal.
Role Transition and Management: Transitioning from a design assistant to a lead design role introduced new responsibilities, including managing interns and overseeing comprehensive design projects. This shift required effective time management, leadership, and the ability to drive the brand’s vision forward while ensuring team cohesion.
Skills Acquired:
Strategic Brand Development: Strategic choices in product diversification and market expansion emphasized the importance of a distinct brand presence, essential for standing out in a competitive market. Aligning creative vision with market needs and adapting to feedback ensured our product offerings met commercial demands.
Innovative Thinking: Pioneering unique design elements within GOOMHEO’s collections broadened my innovative thinking. Challenging traditional norms and exploring new creative avenues kept the brand ahead of trends, essential for capturing audience attention.
Time Management: Navigating the fast-paced fashion industry with tight deadlines improved my time management skills. Efficiently balancing multiple projects and ensuring timely delivery were crucial for maintaining productivity and meeting collection schedules.
Collaborative Work: Leading design teams and managing interns emphasized the importance of collaboration. Working closely with various stakeholders ensured cohesive and successful project outcomes, reinforcing the value of teamwork in achieving creative goals.
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